The skin barrier
Epidermal barrier function and transepidermal water loss
How the skin barrier works
The barrier lives in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. It is often described as bricks and mortar: flattened cells (corneocytes) are the bricks, and a lipid matrix of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids is the mortar.
The barrier keeps water in and keeps irritants, allergens and microbes out. A slightly acidic surface and the protein filaggrin, which breaks down into natural moisturizing factors, help to maintain it. When the barrier is impaired, water loss rises and the skin becomes dry, reactive and prone to inflammation.
Key steps in building the barrier
- Cornification
- Keratinocytes flatten and harden into corneocytes.
- Lipid secretion
- Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids fill the spaces between them.
- Natural moisturizing factors
- Filaggrin breaks down into molecules that hold water.
- The acid mantle
- A low surface pH supports the skin’s enzymes and resident microbes.
Factors that impair the barrier
The barrier is worn down from outside and weakened from within:
- Over-washing and harsh cleansers
- Strip the lipid matrix.
- Low humidity and cold
- Increase water loss.
- Genetic factors
- Variants of filaggrin are linked with eczema.
- Aging
- Lipid production falls.
Clinical management and physician guidance
Persistent dryness or irritation is assessed as a skin condition.
- Skin assessment
- Examination and history, including the products in use.
- Physician-guided care
- Gentle skin care and the care of any skin condition, as your physician decides.
- Monitoring and follow-up
- Symptoms and markers are reviewed over time, and the plan is adjusted to them.
Research focus in barrier biology
| Core focus area | Biological target | Clinical relevance |
|---|---|---|
| Barrier lipids | Ceramides | Retention of water |
| Structural proteins | Filaggrin | Natural moisturizing factors and the risk of eczema |
| Barrier measurement | Transepidermal water loss | How barrier function is assessed |
| Surface ecology | Skin pH and the microbiome | Defense against pathogens |
Frequently asked questions
- What does a damaged barrier feel like?
- Dry, tight, stinging or easily irritated skin.
- Can washing damage the barrier?
- Frequent washing with harsh cleansers removes the lipids that hold it together.
- When should I see a physician?
- For persistent dryness, itching or rashes, which may be eczema or another skin condition.
Academic references and literature
- Elias PM (2008). Skin barrier function. Curr Allergy Asthma Rep, 8(4), 299-305. PMID 18606081.
- Palmer CN et al. (2006). Common loss-of-function variants of the epidermal barrier protein filaggrin are a major predisposing factor for atopic dermatitis. Nat Genet, 38(4), 441-6. PMID 16550169.
- Proksch E, Brandner JM, Jensen JM (2008). The skin: an indispensable barrier. Exp Dermatol, 17(12), 1063-72. PMID 19043850.
This guide belongs to the Skin Health program